I send it back and give them a chance to fix it ... If it's unacceptable the second time, I talk to the manager and tell them what's wrong.
Usually, the manager will either give me a chance to order another item without charge for the first ... Or even offer the other item for free ... Or comp the meals of everyone at the table ... Or a combination of those.
But if all else failed ... No, I would not pay for an inedible meal. If they want to call the police - I'd be happy to wait around and have the officers taste the food. ;)